The Contemporary Art Museum of Crete (CCA) in Rethymno presents the exhibition “What you wear is what you are”, a compelling exploration of how fashion intersects with art and politics, identity and culture, personal and social expression. The exhibition features works by 29 artists and designers and will be on view through October 31st.
Curators Maria Maragkou, Maria Panayides and Stavros Kavalaris seek to highlight the dynamic interplay between fashion and the challenges of our times, focusing not just on fashion as a form of art, but also in terms of culture, history, politics and personal identity. Fashion has become a vital part of our daily life and social reality, defining social status and serving as a powerful force of individual and collective expression, ultimately shaping the deeper human desire to stand out.
The exhibition also pays tribute to the late Sophia Kokosalaki, the London-based, internationally renowned fashion designer who died at the age of 47. The exhibition includes twenty-four of her creations, along with jewelry and drawings from her family’s collection.
Kokosalaki’s designs were deeply rooted in her Greek heritage, drawing inspiration from classical drapery, Minoan and Byzantine motifs, and Hellenic folk crafts. She masterfully combined these elements with modern techniques, creating garments that were both elegant and innovative. Her work transcended fashion; it was a celebration of culture, femininity, and timeless beauty. Her ability to combine classical influences with modern design principles has left an indelible mark on the fashion industry.
Kokosalaki was born in Athens in 1972. She studied English Literature at the University of Athens and pursued her postgraduate studies in fashion at Central Saint Martins in London.
The Greek cultural heritage has always been a source of inspiration for her. Minoan culture, ancient Greece, folk tradition, and handicrafts, as well as Crete, her place of origin and childhood memories, have always inspired her. Ancient Greek draping, the Minoan Snake Goddess, Byzantine iconography and Greek embroidery coupled with modern influences (urban life, street culture, new wave, post-punk music scene) were key features in her work.
Kokosalaki’s was renowned for her ability to merge historical references with a forward-thinking sensibility, appealing to both traditional and contemporary tastes. Her draped, Grecian-inspired silhouettes with a contemporary edge combined classical aesthetics with modern simplicity.
A key moment in her career was the 2004 Athens Olympics, as she was appointed chief designer for the opening and closing ceremonies, overseeing the costumes for thousands of participants. One of her most iconic creations was the spectacular dress worn by Björk while performing “Oceania” at the 2004 Athens Olympic Opening Ceremony, one of the most unforgettable moments in Olympic history. The dress was a marvel of engineering and symbolism. It consisted of flowing blue fabric that gradually unfurled over the stadium.
In 2006, she became creative director for historic French fashion house Vionnet, reviving its legacy with her unique vision and also worked with brands like Diesel Black Gold, Topshop, and ASOS, making her designs accessible to a broader audience. Later in her career, Kokosalaki focused on jewelry design, creating pieces that reflected her Greek heritage.
Her untimely passing in 2019 left a void in the fashion world. However, her legacy endures through her designs, which continue to inspire and empower women.
The exhibition is held under the auspices of the Ministry of Tourism and with the support of NEON Organization for Culture and Development. The works exhibited belong to the collections of the National Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST), the Contemporary Art Museum of Crete (CCA), ATOPOS, art galleries, private collections, and the artists.
D.T.
Featured image: René Habermacher Black Athena, Nikopolis, 2004, Athens, Greece in collaboration with Jannis Tsipoulanis
TAGS: ARTS
